Indonesia moves primarily on two wheels ashore. Friendly chaos prevails with the constant music of horns being used to advise intentions. Light horn taps are heard constantly as the motor bikes weave in a bizarre ballet that has no rules or structure. There is sort of a proper side of the road to travel on, but , if the shop needed is on the other side, travel up that side like a salmon upstream. Always tap the horn to pass, with Overtaking four and five abreast !

Road rage is non existent ! Never heard an angry horn blast or saw any tempers flare. Just courtesy with a light horn tap no matter how blatant the infraction by western standards.

Side Saddle is amazingly popular with the female passengers on the pillion. I kept expecting to hear ” look ! no hands !” as she would balance riding sideways thru the maze. Family trips simply meant that all four or five members clung onto the small scooter as it whizzed along the narrow roads.

Motor Freight. Homemade large panniers of woven palm, welded rebar, plastic boxes, or simple tied and strapped bales of anything imaginable. 20 ltr jugs of fuel, cooking oil, paint, hardware. Mobile kitchens as some where elaborate lunch wagons serving Nasi Goreng Ayem, or fried fish balls, or ice cream vendors, along with being produce wagons. I fully enjoyed sitting at the sidewalk table having fried rice with a cold quart of Bintang at a three street intersection just watching the hundreds of motorbikes happily negotiating their uncontrolled, unscripted trips.